Design-led, skin-friendly, innovative, and multifunctional performance wear.
The KOOZY was born in Spain, made in Portugal activewear brand based on innovative, natural, and certified sustainable materials.
Research based, driven by innovations and passion to create outstanding quality products, good for your skin and sustainably produced - in a kind way to our planet.
In this episode Irina invites Rosie Broadhead, a textile scientist specialising in biomaterials from Ghent University, Belgium to talk about “The impact of textile on humans' health: solutions & new innovations”.
The talk highlights:
- skin microbiome and textile;
- synthetics and its impact on humans’ health and the environment;
- alternatives to synthetic materials in performance wear; and
- new innovations and trends in textile industry.
Introduction
Irina: Hi Rosie, thank you for joining us today. Please tell us about your background and what have you been working on lately.
Rosie: I am Rosie Broadhead a material researcher and designer based in Brussels. I am the founder of the material innovation platform SKIN SERIES and a Textile Scientist at Ghent University. I focus on the intersection between skin and clothing and how we can influence the body through materials. These Ingredients are encapsulated in the fibres such as seaweed, vitamin E and probiotics. I have a long-term collaboration with Dr Chris Callewaert where we focus on microbiome-smart solutions with include probiotic textile finishes.
Skin microbiome and textile
Irina: In recent years, we increasingly focus on mental health and the environment. What about our skin health?
Rosie: Skin is our largest organ, and a home to millions of bacteria, fungi and viruses. The skin microbiome is shaped by its natural environment and what is put on and next to the skin has an immediate impact. Designing microbiome-smart textiles can be a novel and alternative way to advance the functionality of clothing and to combat odour development or potential textile-related skin conditions. Recent studies on microbiome and human biology have promising nature. Our bodies are home to hundreds of thousands of microorganisms. Only about half the cells on our bodies contain a human genome. Our human cells closely interact with bacterial, fungal and viral cells. This understanding that we live in a symbiotic relationship with microbes changed the way we think about individuality and for me how I approach clothing design.
Irina: What is a skin microbiome and how it interacts with textile we wear? How the textile can affect our skin (e.g., pH level, odour generation etc.)? Can we say the clothing we wear may affect our overall wellbeing?
Rosie: Our clothing is consistently in contact with the human skin; therefore, textiles are an important consideration if you have skin concerns or want to move away from chemical finishes and synthetic fibres. We know from our research at Gent University that the textile microbiome mimics the skin microbiome of the wearer. Textile and skin transfer microbes between these surfaces, therefore your textile can affect your skin microbiome.
There has been a lot of focus on bioactive ingredients in the skin care industry, but the effect of textiles on the skin has been overlooked. Textiles can be an essential player in the potential causation and treatment of various types of dermatitis and skin diseases. Different factors such as textile structure, pH, breathability, and microbiome are all relevant when it comes to how textiles can affect the skin. Research has found that wool and synthetic fibres, such as polyester and nylon, can worsen atopic dermatitis symptoms, for example.
Synthetics and its impact on humans’ health, and the environment
Irina: We came across some studies showing a possible link between sportswear and health issues such as cancer, obesity and developmental disabilities, stating “sportswear presents a particular problem because sweat and friction can prompt more rapid absorption of toxins into the body…” “…increased consumer awareness is making apparel quality control more important than ever.
At The KOOZY, we are committed to bring new innovations in application of natural materials to the production pf performance wear. We were able to reduce the use of synthetically derived materials to the minimum of 5 percent in our stretchy garments. This result has a market disturbing nature, showing how the modern sportwear can be constructed by minimising and even eliminating synthetics.
Given your expertise, could you share the challenges posed by synthetic materials and their effects on both human health and the environment? What are the potential health risks associated with prolonged exposure to synthetic textiles, and how can consumers make informed choices about what they wear, such as considering the transparency of material composition and origin?
Rosie: Many textiles in the fashion industry contain toxic chemicals such as heavy metals, antimicrobials, chlorine bleach, and formaldehyde, in every stage of the production process. Not only are these chemicals a serious health risk, but they are also harmful to the environment and natural ecosystems.
Certain textiles and sportswear fabrics have been found to contain BPA, a chemical used to make polyester and nylon. The problem with this chemical is that is an endocrine disruptor, which means it can interact with oestrogen and thyroid hormones. We can absorb BPA through skin transfer.
Another example is heavy metals, there was a study which found lead in professional football kits which can be carcinogenic to the body. Heavy metals are also used for their antimicrobial properties in clothing, often silver, zinc or titanium is used here. The problem with these chemicals is that they kill all the bacteria on your skin. Which means it is affecting the skin microbiome and skin health.
On the environmental impact of synthetic materials.
Irina: At The KOOZY, we are dedicated to eliminating the use of synthetics across the production cycle. We explore innovative ways to mitigate synthetic polymer pollution and intrigued by the research & innovations in this area. Did you hear about the game changing plastic-eating bacteria [1]?
Rosie: There are a lot of new developments focusing on bio-fabricated materials, using algae, bacteria cellulose and mycelium. For example, some companies are making use of seaweed to develop alternatives to polyester-based yarn. There are large platforms, focusing on fibre-to-fibre recycling, both cellulose and synthetic fibres. Such as Renewacell, which is a textile-to-textile recycling scheme using cellulose yarns. There is also a lot of effort to develop quality recycled synthetics which will prevent these materials from going to landfill.
Next to this, there has been some research into microbes or biofilms degrading plastic and fossil fuel-eating bacteria. There is huge potential here, yet there is still a long way to go with this kind of research to make tangible impacts on our environment, I do believe biotechnology has so much potential to provide solutions.
[1] Kyoto University of Technology scientists believe in microbes can be an answer to the waste crisis. They have found Ideonella Sakaiensis bacteria is capable of breaking down plastic in 6 weeks by using it as its main energy source.
Scientists of the Royal Netherlands Institute for Sea Research identified Rhodococcus Ruber bacteria powered by sunlight, capable of digesting plastic in seawaters. So what is the catch? Plastic has different types so as the culinary preferences of those species. They are also a moody bunch, willing to work only under specific conditions: temperature, UV light and specific environment. There has been no adequate solution to date to scale up those findings and lack of institutional support towards finding alternatives to the “new plastic production” recycling processes.
Urgent categories of focus in replacement of synthetic with natural materials.
Irina: As The KOOZY places a strong emphasis on skin-friendly performance wear, we would like to discuss the urgency of addressing activewear and underclothes as the most urgent categories of focus, due to their direct contact with our skin, the body's temperature regulation, and the need for frequent washing. Are there innovative solutions, such as odour control and antimicrobial finishings, helping to can play a role in these categories?
Rosie: The skin microbiome is important for maintaining skin health, we also know that the skin microbiome and textile microbiome interact. If chemicals that we mentioned earlier are on the textiles then it can disrupt the skin microbiome, or worse be absorbed into our bodies and into our bloodstream. When exercising sweat and friction create this close interaction with material, and therefore more rapid absorption to the body. At SKIN SERIES we focus on developing textiles which have a beneficial effect on the skin.
Irina: In raising public awareness on the importance of skin-friendly textile, how can the textile industry collaborate with healthcare professionals to ensure that innovative textile solutions available to public and this need is acknowledged and integrated with best practices in medical care and public health?
Rosie: Considering textile has a direct impact on our health, it could be interesting if health care professional can provide insights to patient based on the latest research. For example, if the patient is suffering from a skin disease then advice on comfortable, breathable and safe fibre such as organic cotton or hemp could be useful.
Alternatives to synthetics
Irina: When choosing skin and overall health-friendly materials to wear, what are the optimal choices? What factors should we consider when choosing clothing?
Rosie: The main point here is that bio-based materials have a better impact on the skin and the body. This is due to their natural breathability and natural origin. This isn’t always the case in the textile industry, there are many other factors to consider. Cotton is one of the most unsustainable fabrics when it comes to water, land use, pesticides, and dyes. There are factors to consider in each stage of the very complex textile supply chain. In this case, you can choose Organic Cotton, and check that the materials or brands comply with REACH, OEKO-TEX, ‘Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals’ standards for example. Often, these standards don’t go far enough but these are important benchmarks in the industry. There are natural dyes available, and some new start up and companies looking at pigments made by microbes, such as Colour FX.
Performance wear textile
Irina: The KOOZY performance wear collection based on natural, certified fibres. We also add some proven therapeutic properties to our materials for wellbeing-focused textiles. How can we shape the future of sportswear industry to make these innovations widely available to everyone, and what steps can be taken to accelerate this progress? How we can address the needs of specialised groups, such as athletes (profesional sportsmen, marathon runners etc.)?
Rosie: The performance and sportswear industries in textile is dominated by synthetic materials and treatments. Mostly nylon, polyester, and treatments such as heavy metals.
The sweat and friction during these activities do prompt a faster absorption of these chemicals to the skin. There is new research in this sector on how to address performance but in a way that works with the body, not against it. For example, we focus on odour control by using what already exists on the skin already. Anti-microbial are commonly used in sportswear fabric but we want to use natural ingredients to add performance. My focus is developing material using bacteria which already exist on the skin.
Future technologies in textile industry
Irina: As The KOOZY is innovations driven operation, we are always searching for exciting new ideas, technologies in the textile industry. In the last year, we came across some inspiring talents, bringing hope towards a more sustainable future and healthier lifestyle.
Colorfix team, challenging the dying industry, the largest water consumers in the world and based on highly polluting chemicals. At Colorfix, by using DNA sequencing and colours from the natural world, they have created sustainable dyes that limit the need of harmful chemicals.
Woolmark team, has done recent research on Merino wool textile being beneficial for eczema sufferers, confirming skin benefits for people with sensitive skin. They have done some exciting collaborations to produce wool-rich circular performance collections.
Could you share some insights into emerging technologies in your practice, such as bioinspired nanostructures and microbiome-smart clothing, and how they can revolutionize the textile industry?
Rosie: Dr Chris Callewaert and I focus on developing probiotic and microbiome-smart textiles and treatments. My company SKIN SERIES developed textiles with health benefits to the skin and body. These ingredients include probiotics, algae, and vitamin E. By including skin-friendly and bioactive ingredients in textiles they can provide health benefits to the skin while being worn. SKIN SERIES focuses on antioxidant materials, anti-inflammatory, and cell regeneration on the skin. Here the skin and textile are considered simultaneously. Other companies I find interesting in the field of biofabrication include Radient Matter, Modern Synthesis and Lite-1. They are all working towards a more sustainable and chemical-free textile industry.
Closing remarks
Irina: As we come to the end of this enlightening conversation, we would like to thank you Rosie for sharing your experience and talking about the latest innovations in textile industry and its effect on the wellbeing. By making conscious choices benefiting our health and the environment, we can create a better future. We look forward to seeing how these insights and innovations will continue to shape the world of active lifestyle living.
Thank you for joining us at The KOOZY World Podcast.
